A long time ago I got some Cabela’s Moccasin Duck Boots. These are great for here in Coastal Oregon, where the grass never dries. And they should be easy to slip on and off at the door. But the problem is that they never were easy to put on and take off. The Tongue of the shoes was turned in rather than out.
As you can see from these pictures, I’ve figured out how to re-string the laces to correct this issue. On the left is the original shoe and the right picture shows one repaired shoe.
I’ve recently had problems with my internet service. My DSL router is apparently re-syncing causing my public IP address to change. Apparently my ISP uses PPOE rather than DHCP, and apparently PPOE does not allow “Reservations”, which allows a client computer to use the same IP address if it reconnects within a given amount of time. Your home router uses DHCP, which does do reservations, so your computers LAN IP address does not change if the computer connects every 24 hours, which I understand is the default “Reservation” time.
Re-synching is not only a problem because the internet is out for a short amount of time, but also because the IP address change causes some games to require that you “Verify” your IP address by reporting a code that is sent to your email account. This is obviously an issue if the Re-Sync happens several times per day.
After quite a bit of research I found a windows service that logs the Public IP address to the Windows Event log every 15 minutes. I run one of my windows systems all the time, since it’s running Carbonite, so this system will run the PublicIpLogger program.
If you want to use the program, it’s on GitHub here. This is the forum post that mentions this program.
From Github, download the setup.exe file and run it. Then you can enter “view event log” into Cortana and you should see a choice to run the windows event viewer. The program logs your public IP address to the event log every 15 minutes.
As shown, under Application and Service Logs, find the PublicIpLogger events and there are a number of events that show the Public IP address, whether they have changed or not.
A previous post talked about rodent damage to the kitchen faucet. Now, the Faucet lines are armored with Stainless Mesh. I thought about using two layers, but this mesh is so strong I don’t think that’s necessary. It’s pushed up tight against the counter top and held on with a pair of cable ties at each end. No place for pesky rodents to get their teeth into the faucet lines now.
No way to armor the line to the spray, but that can be replaced. The wisdom on this problem is that the rodent’s only chew lines that actually have water in them. They can probably sense the difference in temperature of the lines. After all, they are just after a drink.
I think I’ve found the issue. EDID.
The EDID or Extended Display Identification Data is a packet of information sent from a monitor or TV to the source of the video and tells the source what types of video the display can process.
Imagine for a moment that we have a receiver from 2013 – pre 4K – that contains an HDMI switch. Now imagine that one buys almost any TV today – almost all of them support 4K. Now imagine that one purchases something that produces video – BluRay player, XBox Console, Playstation, even a modern set top box. Most of these support 4K video.
So what happens if the EDID from the 4K TV passes unchanged through the NR1504 from 2013 to the video source that can produce 4K? Well the source happily produces 4K video and the NR1504 cannot pass it. Black screen? Apparently.
Was the Marantz 1504 never modifying the EDID? Or did it just start not modifying the EDID? Or did the Linux computer get a new driver that was willing to produce 4K video?
I hooked up an HD monitor to the NR1504 and hooked the Linux box back up to the Media input and voila. Everything works fine, of course.
It seems clear that in this world of ubiquitous 4K sources and displays, the Marantz NR1504 needs to be modifying the EDID or producing one of it’s own to continue to work.
I’ve used the display settings in Linux to use HD only and that works fine with the TV, but when I plugged it back into the NR1504 it still didn’t work. Oh well. Time for a new Receiver that gets 4K. But at least I can use the Linux system by plugging it directly into the TV and setting it to HD.
I’ve had a Marantz NR1504 for a couple of years at least. As you can see, it was released in 2013 and is no longer made – according to Marantz Tech Support.
My Marantz NR1504 Receiver recently took an update over the internet. Automatically. And the next time my Linux Mint System booted, the receiver refused to pass video from the Linux system. Dish Hopper and Sony Bluray player work fine. I thought the problem was the Linux Kernel Update that I’d done, so I pulled the machine out of the Entertainment system and attached another monitor to it thinking that I would need to re-install Linux Mint 18.2, but it came up fine with the other monitor. Also, I’ve swapped HDMI cable and used other Receiver input ports, and when the Linux system is attached directly to the Vizio Pseries TV, it works fine, in FREAKING 4K no less. Of course the NR1504 only supports HD, not 4K. In 4K the print is so small on my 65″ TV that I can barely see it. But it works fine and Youtube is also fine.
Pellet stoves can’t really, in my opinion, be controlled by a thermostat. They take a long time to start, and up to 30 minutes sometimes to shut off. And in my situation, I need a fan to blow the warm air into other rooms of the house. So, there is a pedestal fan next to the stove to blow the warm air to the rest of the house. But I had to manually start and stop that fan.
The problem is that if the fan is started with the stove, it blows cold air for a long time before the stove warms up. And when I shut off the stove, I have to come back later and turn off the fan, maybe at night when I just want to go back to sleep.
So here’s the solution. There are “Temperature Controllers”. I found several on Amazon. This one looks very fancy, but was only about $35. It can control heating and cooling of something and has a large wattage rating. So the fan is plugged into the Cooling socket and the temperature is set to 85 degrees. So the fan is always off unless the stove is hotter than 85 degrees. So when the stove is turned on, the fan comes on about 5-7 minutes later when the stove has warmed up, and when the stove is shut off, the fan shuts off up to 30 minutes later when the stove has cooled down.
Notice the thin wire sneaking over to the top left of the stove? That’s the thermo sensor that controls the controller.
Works great. Now I don’t need to worry about the fan at all. Just turn the stove on and off when I need it.
I just had to replace an expensive kitchen faucet because a rat apparently chewed through one of the supply lines. See the little nip in the line on the right picture?
Apparently this is quite common. Rats seem to know that they can get a drink by chewing through a faucet supply line. Unfortunately, these very expensive faucets – about $300 for any of the major brands – all use nylon other plastic for the mesh around the supply lines rather than stainless steel mesh. As you may know, replacement supply lines for toilets and many other faucets are covered in a stainless steel mesh, which rats will not chew. But the supply lines on these expensive faucets cannot be replaced or easily repaired.
The rat only chewed a little hole to get a drink, so it drip drip dripped and I didn’t find it for a couple of days when I noticed water on the floor.
So after a new $300 faucet and a $150 plumber’s visit, I have a new faucet.
Now there’s a big rat trap in the cabinet defending the faucet from rats.
Update: I had a brainstorm early this morning. I just bought this and will slide this over the faucet lines.
That ought to keep the pesky rats off the faucet lines. So there.
I got up this morning, and tried to wake up my computer like I always do, but it didn’t.
As you can see, I have what I call a “Battle Chair” which you can find here and here. I’ve upgraded the computer again since 2013, and the monitor is now an ASUS PQ258Q – 2K monitor.
Well this morning, the monitor would not wake up. I rebooted the computer a couple of times. No luck.
Can’t connect between Linux and Windows10 with Samba
Here’s a Forum Post.
This appears to have worked to allow me to see windows 10 systems from Linux Mint 18.3.
I don’t think iptables-persistant is the better way around.
The correct and documented way to enforce advanced iptables commands is described on https://wiki.ubuntu.com/UncomplicatedFi … ctionality
Using that info, what solved the problem for me was to add the code bellow and the end of “/etc/ufw/after.rules” and restarting ufw:
Code: Select all
:PREROUTING ACCEPT [728:143746]
:OUTPUT ACCEPT [664:135398]
-A OUTPUT -p udp -m udp --dport 137 -j CT --helper netbios-ns
This way, there’s not need to mess with iptables-persistant and if you installed iptables-persistent you’ll need to uninstall it running sudo “apt-get purge iptables-persistent”.
Use “Sudo xed” in a terminal to get an editor so you can edit the file mentioned above. Copy / Paste the settings above at the end of the after.rules file and save it. You can safely ignore the errors about meta data that xed spits out. It’s trying to save some meta data about the formatting and of course that is nonsense when you are editing system files.
Just sharing it so I can find it from Linux.
I’ve now had some time playing the Warlords of Draenor expansion and I’ve figured out an efficient and productive way to deal with Garrisons. I should mention that I’m playing with mostly Heirlooms: three pieces of armor, weapons and usually a necklace. And I have Draenor Pathfinder, so my Alts fly from the beginning as they finish the Assault on the Dark Portal event.
I would have preferred to level up to 91 with the Alts before going to Draenor. This would allow the Heirlooms to level up significantly. As it turns out, with Heirlooms you reach 91 at the end or shortly after completing the Draenor Starting Event, and there is enough help during the event that it doesn’t matter a lot whether you are 91 when starting it.
I’ve played three Horde toons through Draenor until 101, which is my goal before entering Legion, again to level up the Heirlooms. Along the way I’ve learned some lessons with Garrisons and with the areas to play to level efficiently.