My recent builds have used G.Skill DRAM, which has neat RGB lighting. Out of the box the LEDs are animated and bob and weave the colors across the DRAMs. Very nice.
There is an App that allows control of the lighting and it has hundreds of options to control the colors and patterns of the DRAM sticks.
However, if you install the app and set the patterns, they are not permanent. If you sleep or restart the computer the lighting comes up dark. Actually, during the reboot or restart from sleep, the lighting is restored, but then it looks as if the driver turns the lighting off as the machine finishes coming up. So the app is useless unless you want to run it every time you boot or come out of sleep.
Thankfully, removing the app and rebooting puts the DRAM back into its initial lit and animated state.
I have tried to post a question in the forum, but the barriers to entry to the forums are too high. Someday they will get back to me about my sign-up on the forums and allow me to post. Everyone else uses automated Anti-Spam, but these folks do it manually so forget it. Looks like if you want your DRAM lights on, just don’t use their app.
Here’s a gif of part of the default animation:
While upgrading the KVM switch to Displayport, there were some problems with cables. After sending a cable back that didn’t work, the replacement finally arrived. The new cable didn’t seat properly into the GTX 1050 Card in the Cooler Master NS200 case either.
After looking at a cable that worked – 6 ft- and then at the cable needed – 10 ft – the issue was discovered. The case has a bump next to the card interface that interferes with one of the cables and not the other. The 6 ft cable is slightly flatter where the bump is and so clears it to seat properly into the graphics card.
The top left pictures shows the CM NS200 case detail next to the graphics card. The Mini-ITX card does not allow another position for the graphics card. The top left picture shows a Displayport connector that works. The bottom left shows the before and after – the two ends – of the cable that does not work. The right connector has been shaved with an Exacto knife to allow it to fit past the bump and seat properly. The bottom right picture shows a detail of the modification of the cable.
Looks like not every one agrees on the clearance required for displayport cables. So beware if you rig doesn’t work as expected.
When installing Linux Mint 19, which is recently been released, into a VirtualBox Virtual Machine, the video went to snow, as shown below. I asked about this problem in the forums and didn’t get an answer so I posted a bug to the bug database on GitHub.
About a year and a half ago I bought a Vizio P65 TV. The Model was C1 at that time. This model is apparently no longer available, apparently. The new model is E1 as shown here.
Just after a year, when the TV was out of warranty, two of the four HDMI ports failed. I paid about $400 for an out of warranty repair to replace the “Main Board” and the HDMI ports all work now. The repair required two folks, since the TV is very heavy and must be laid down on it’s face for a mainboard repair. Also the folks drove over 200 miles to reach my house, so I doubt if they broke even on the repair.
Now the TV is Rebooting
However, after this repair, about twice, or more, times per day, the TV seizes up and reboots.
When it reboots, almost always, but not always, the restart process starts with the screen showing a repeating pattern of the lower few rows of the screen. Then after about 10 seconds, the TV restarts showing the Vizio brand chevron. This example happened while watching the Dish Hopper.
I think I’ve found the issue. EDID.
The EDID or Extended Display Identification Data is a packet of information sent from a monitor or TV to the source of the video and tells the source what types of video the display can process.
Imagine for a moment that we have a receiver from 2013 – pre 4K – that contains an HDMI switch. Now imagine that one buys almost any TV today – almost all of them support 4K. Now imagine that one purchases something that produces video – BluRay player, XBox Console, Playstation, even a modern set top box. Most of these support 4K video.
So what happens if the EDID from the 4K TV passes unchanged through the NR1504 from 2013 to the video source that can produce 4K? Well the source happily produces 4K video and the NR1504 cannot pass it. Black screen? Apparently.
Was the Marantz 1504 never modifying the EDID? Or did it just start not modifying the EDID? Or did the Linux computer get a new driver that was willing to produce 4K video?
I hooked up an HD monitor to the NR1504 and hooked the Linux box back up to the Media input and voila. Everything works fine, of course.
It seems clear that in this world of ubiquitous 4K sources and displays, the Marantz NR1504 needs to be modifying the EDID or producing one of it’s own to continue to work.
I’ve used the display settings in Linux to use HD only and that works fine with the TV, but when I plugged it back into the NR1504 it still didn’t work. Oh well. Time for a new Receiver that gets 4K. But at least I can use the Linux system by plugging it directly into the TV and setting it to HD.
I’ve had a Marantz NR1504 for a couple of years at least. As you can see, it was released in 2013 and is no longer made – according to Marantz Tech Support.
My Marantz NR1504 Receiver recently took an update over the internet. Automatically. And the next time my Linux Mint System booted, the receiver refused to pass video from the Linux system. Dish Hopper and Sony Bluray player work fine. I thought the problem was the Linux Kernel Update that I’d done, so I pulled the machine out of the Entertainment system and attached another monitor to it thinking that I would need to re-install Linux Mint 18.2, but it came up fine with the other monitor. Also, I’ve swapped HDMI cable and used other Receiver input ports, and when the Linux system is attached directly to the Vizio Pseries TV, it works fine, in FREAKING 4K no less. Of course the NR1504 only supports HD, not 4K. In 4K the print is so small on my 65″ TV that I can barely see it. But it works fine and Youtube is also fine.
I accepted a software update of the kernel on my LM 18.2 system, and now it won’t boot. Probably someone rushed out a SpecterMelt fix or something. Anyway, I need to back out these kernels later than 4.4.0-98 so they aren’t boot options. If I restart now I need to go through grub advanced options to get system started.
How do I back out these recent kernels?
Update: Use the Update Manager > View > Linux Kernels to choose which ones you want and you can back them out.
Update Update: Not a crash at all. Linux was fine. The Marantz NR1504 took an update that blacked the screen. Linux works fine to other monitors and the 4K TV without problems on the latest kernel.
I got up this morning, and tried to wake up my computer like I always do, but it didn’t.
As you can see, I have what I call a “Battle Chair” which you can find here and here. I’ve upgraded the computer again since 2013, and the monitor is now an ASUS PQ258Q – 2K monitor.
Well this morning, the monitor would not wake up. I rebooted the computer a couple of times. No luck.
Boot Failure after Anniversary Update
I had my Alienware Area 51 since about 2007 – since right before DELL bought Alienware – and about a year ago I upgraded to Windows 10. No problem. Here are the specs.
But the Anniversary Update fails miserably on this machine. It keeps waking up dead, if you see what I mean. A couple of days ago it was running, right after the update but without the 2 additional SATA hard drives. The drives were obviously still in the system, but Windows 10 did not see them. And Disk Manager did not see them either. So I did a RESTART with the start menu and got into a world of hurt. The system never finished restarting. After 10 minutes it was still doing an animation on the screen saying Restarting. So I used the power button, it failed to boot, and then finally I got it back by going back to the previous restore point using essentially the same process you see below, but it looked different that time. No application windows just blue screen dialogs.
Now it’s happened again, but differently. Continue Reading
SOLVED – see below
I have a couple of hard drives. But I can’t get them to AutoMount. Used the post here to try to get it to work, but this does not work. The boot stops with a message to “Type S to skip mounting or M to Manually whatever”.
I set the options to LABEL= to match the old mount point, I hoped.
I can mount the drives manually using the little Arrow in the Disks program next to the partition.
According to this post under Ubuntu: You must uncheck the “Show In User Interface” option:
The drive[s] then show up as /mnt/YOURLABELHERE and rebooting remounts the drives properly.
But these are not the original mount points that were present when the disks were first added to the system. So I changed them and they still mount properly.
Corrected Mount Points
Back to the Original Places
And they appear in the user interface, as you can see. Voila! Why is this so complicated?
BTW, this was published for 2014 so that it does not appear on my first page of the blog. There is no other way I know to get things off the first page.